RACHA -
THE LOVE OF MY LIFE

As the natives of Racha cross the Nakerali pass and see the sparkling, crystal-clear waters of Shaori lake, they heave a deep sigh of relief: “Home at last!”
Who knows, may be Racha was born with the Sun…

In the times when the Messiah was still to come, Rachians used to sing to their own goddess and Mother - the Sun. The fact that Sun was always of a major importance to pagan Rachians can be proved by the discovery of an astral plate made of bronze in a village of Cheliaghele. An 18th century Georgian historian and geographer Prince Vakhushti (Batonishvili), however, provided a different explanation to the etymology of Racha. According to him, the word was derived from Georgian “cha” meaning “a well”. This is supposed to stress on the peculiar landscape of Racha - fields and meadows surrounded by great mountains, which indeed, gives an impression of a well. Georgians cannot be surprised by mountains - along with the mountains of the Caucasus, there are many others in Racha: Shoda, Kedela, Khikhata, Sobchi etc. - what does surprise anyone who happens to see these giants is the warmth and comfort they radiate.

If you are interested in seeing the borderline between Europe and Asia you definitely have to visit Phasi Mountain, the mouth of river Rioni (ancient Phasis) that starts and ends in Georgia. This is where the mysterious border is situated, or at least that is what the classical geographers claimed.


“Racha is a dream country” - these words of a Georgian song indicate that one’s dreams may come true if he visits Racha. The dreamlike Racha can host four seasons at a time - it is possible to simultaneously see Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn in Lower and Upper Racha -some villages are still covered with snow, but just several miles away one may come across the trees in full bud and even flowers.

Dense forests of precious fir trees, pines, larches and alpine meadows covered with edelweiss snow - this is Racha. The village of Tskadisi is famous for its silvery pines. These pines were brought to Moscow by the revolutionary Abel Enukidzre and one may see them around the Kremlin on the Red Square.
Racha is sometimes called the cradle of Georgian (and not only Georgian) metallurgy. The first recorded city of metallurgists, Brili is at the mouth of river Rioni in Racha.

The produce of the local “iron men” was bought by Greeks in the first millenium B.C.

In Upper Racha local population used to produce bronze from arsenic and antimony. Antimony can only be found in several places in the world (America and Africa) and Racha is among them. Moreover, Rachian antimony is well known for its excellent quality. The same can be said of arsenic that can be found in Urvi (Ambrolauri region of Racha).

The unique climate and mineral waters of Racha that can heal many diseases and make the place suitable for recreational business in all seasons.
One of Rachian resorts is Shovi - guarded by snowy mountains and roaring river Chanchakhi.  It offers a variety of mineral waters rich in minerals etc.
The wonderful Racha has always played a major role in Georgia’s history. The prince of Racha Rostom was one of the most prominent figures at the Georgian court. This may have determined the fact that Queen Tamar spent her childhood in Berakoni, Racha. According to a Russian Ambassador Rostom was regarded one of the wealthiest nobles in Georgia. He had 500 deer; the milk of these deer was used in pharmacology. In 1753-1755 Rostom Eristavi built St Mary Cathedral in Berakoni, St George-in-the-fields church in and the Nunnery of Jerusalem.

There used to be 700-year-old lime-tree by the Ambrolauri castle. It survived a terrible earthquake several years ago but collapsed this year. This lime-tree is featured in the first Georgian documentary “Akaki Tsereteli’s trip to Racha” which was shot at the dawn of this century.

Lack of agricultural lands has always been a problem for the natives of Racha - people that looked like mountains themselves. So these industrious men would leave their village in late autumn and get back for Easter. The “gastarbeiters” from Racha worked as cooks, bakers, construction workers etc.

Traditions that come from ancestors are sacred for Rachians. They are wonderful hosts and the guests are usually offered a great table. Rachians are especially proud of their homestyle bacon and bean bread. The bacon is smoked according to a unique recipe and the process is accompanied by some sacred rituals.
And, of course, a few words are to be said about the local wine “Khvanchkara”. This unique wine was served at Tehran, Poznan and Berlin conferences. The varieties of vine used for Khvanchkara  - Mujurutuli and Aleksandrouli - grows only in three villages on the right bank of river Rioni. The wine was first produced by Dimitri Eristavi in 1870s.  In 1900 the wine became world known…The years will pass and this wine will be called Khvanchkara. Rachian polyphonic songs like “Raeo”, “Rashovda” and “Eqvtimean Maravazhamieri” are accompanied by a Rachian bagpipe, and a chianuri (local string instrument).

Well-built Rachians are so kind, calm and tolerant in nature that they sometimes seem to be naive. The abundance of pet names in a Rachian dialect is a good proof to the above. Rachian humour is as warm as the people themselves.

Rachians are great builders, architects and icon painters. Wonderful frescoes of Krikhi, Kvara and Minda castle, ornaments of Nikortsminda, but not only this - look at the ornaments carved in wood on the common Rachian houses and state-of-the-art gates and you will see the strength of their talent.

St George’s church, Barakoni cathedral and Minda castle are all situated in the village of Tsesi… Minda castle was built by Queen Tamar’s order, the English for “minda” is “I want”…

So come and visit Racha that is an answer to all your prayers.

EKA KEVANISHVILI