Whatever it may be, Mushtaidi is still something different…

That may be because of its old age or, perhaps, due to its links with  antiquity, or because of the stories that our parents, grandfathers and grandmothers have told us... Or, maybe, because of the memories of even earlier Tbilisi-dwellers or visitors…

Or, perhaps, because of everything taken together… and also because ‘Mushtaidi’ has become part of our life.

The word ‘Mushtaidi’ is not Georgian at all. The name of the park derives from the last name of a man, who built it in the 1830s. This man was Tavrisian Mir-Perte-Aga-Seid Mushtaidi, a representative of the senior clergymen of the Shiite religion of Iran.

Mir-Perte-Aga-Seid Mushtaidi was a very popular person, both in Iran and in the Caucasus. His popularity was due to  many factors: his origin, position, education, extraordinary oratorical talent, and personal character – he was a kind, generous and forgiving man.

The popularity of Mushtaidi was not left unnoticed by General Alexander Paskevich, the Chief Governor of the Caucasus, who was conquering the Caucasus with sword and fire, joining it bit-by-bit to the Russian Empire. He correctly appreciated Mushtaidi’s skills and capabilities, and with diplomatic tact and shrewdness, won him over and put him in the service of Russia. The idea itself belonged to Alexander Griboedov - at that time Russia’s Ambassador to Iran. Mushtaidi managed to drive away Abaz-Mirza, the Iranian prince and the ruler of southern Azerbaijan, and Alajar-Khan, the Tevrizian commander, and was instrumental in annexing this region to Russia. After the Turkmanchai Truce, when southern Azerbaijan was returned to Iran, Mushtaidi, considered a traitor to his country, could no longer step his foot on the Iranian soil, and was obliged to flee the country, leaving behind  property estimated at 27,000 Iranian tumans (400,000 Russian golden rubles).

The Caucasian Chief Governor duely rewarded the services rendered by Mushtaidi. At his request, a high pension was set for Mushtaidi.  He was decorated with the highest Imperial orders and medals. He was also given 15 villages in Shirvan, and was named the highest-level clergyman of the Shiites in the entire Caucasus. He was also provided with a residence in Tbilisi, and was allowed to open a religious school. To this end, he was allotted 50 desyatins of land on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, where he built a wonderful garden.

In 1845, Mushtaidi was pardoned by the Shah, and he went back to Iran.

The origin of the ‘Mushtaidi Garden’ stems from a sad story. Mushtaidi was married to a Georgian beauty whose name was Nino. He had bought her at the Constantinople slave market. At his wife’s request, the Iranian expatriate chose to live in Tbilisi. After having returned to her homeland,  Nino lived only six months.
Mushtaidi buried his beloved wife in front of his house and planted many red roses on her grave. Then he planted a beautiful garden around it. A twelve-kilometer-long channel was laid from the Mtkvari River to water the garden…

Today, this garden still blossoms in the spring and the name of its creator has been retained.

 After Mushtaidi’s departure to Iran, a merchant called Gorgijanov purchased the garden. Very shortly afterwards, he went bankrupt, and in 1853, the garden was acquired by the State Treasury with the idea of turning it into an agricultural farm. In the 1880s, a silk-manufacturing farm and a museum were built on this area.
From 1859,  Mushtaidi was transformed into a recreational park.

The first significant event was held there on 25 August, 1859 commemorating the capture of Shamil in the aul of Ghubin. A festive welcome was arranged in the Mushtaidi Garden to honor the Caucasian viceroy, General-Field-Marshal Alexander Bariatinski. And thereafter, according to poet Grigol Orbeliani, "the former Mushtaidi Garden was enlarged, and made even more beautiful by the chief Governor, and was made available to the public for leisure and entertainment". There were plenty of places for amusement: a restaurant, a buffet, a pavilion, and a spring theatre. In Gorgijanov’s cafe ‘Chantan’, the privileged society and Messieurs the officers helped themselves to champagne and amused themselves."

It was on the stage of the open restaurant of the Mushtaidi Garden that Niko Pirosmani first saw the actress Margarita. He saw her and …well, you know yourselves what happened afterwards. Afterwards, there was a big, strange love with a multitude of those well-known roses.

In 1860, the Tbilisi Opera Theatre gave regular symphonic concerts in the Mushtaidi spring theatre. Here, the tunes of the sazandari and duduki (Georgian national musical instruments) flowed pleasantly, and the melodies of Aga Satara, a favourite singer of Georgian romantics, resounded sweetly.

A coach left from Qabakh every half-an-hour to transport the audience willing to attend the concerts. The administration granted ladies the privilege of enjoying the right to attend the performances free-of-charge. As for the men, they had to buy tickets for one ruble and were entitled to be accompanied by one lady.

In old Tbilisi Mushtaidi was considered a prestigious place.  This was where honorable guests of the capital were hosted and exhibitions held. The first exhibition - "Natural and manufactured products of the Caucasus" was opened in 1850. The jubilee exhibition of 1901 was distinguished by its particular grandeur and was visited by a great many people.

The first balloon in the Trans-Caucasus was flown from the Mushtaidi Garden.

The memories of Arthur Leist, Georgia’s German friend and admirer of Georgia, provide a clear idea of the Mushtaidi Garden:

"The Mushtaidi and the gardens around it are a true hearth of life for the local community.  Every day, starting from five o’clock in the evening until midnight, it is the place of  truly gay and noisy entertainment because Georgians love music, songs and loud conversation. Mushtaidi is the name of a spacious and wonderful garden on the bank of the Mtkvari River, traversed by alleys, where people stroll or go on promenade in coaches. On both sides of the alleys, bushes of wild roses and various plants stand in rows, and vines festooned with heavy bunches of grapes run up the trees. In this green, shady park the best of Tbilisi society gathers every evening and coaches keep sweeping past in the alleys.

At this time of the day, one can come across  people dressed in any Caucasian outfit. The chivalrous-looking youth  are strolling among the long rows of chairs, where Georgia’s beautiful and composed young ladies are sitting almost motionless. Many of them are covered with scarves, the others are dressed in entirely European garments. Their ravishing black eyes sparkle under a fashionable hat. Outings in the Mushtaidi Garden usually stop by ten o’clock, but proceed at the other parks where zurna is played, songs and laughter are heard, and the lekuri is danced. This is the most favourite dance of Georgians. In the gardens, the entertainment in the moonlight becomes even more interesting.

During such nights it feels good to stand on the bank of the Mtkvari flowing along the gardens and watch its speedy, silver-colored, shining waves …"
Indeed, it does feel good …

And today, you do wish that this extraordinary place aroused similar emotions…

Later, the garden was  renamed many times – after the railway-men, or the great revolutionary Sergo Orjonikidze. Sometimes it shone with its old beauty and sometimes, like today, it appeared slightly neglected and had an air of sadness about it…

However, it has always been the favourite place of  Tbilisi-dwellers and city visitors - always tranquil and, despite all, romantic.

And to  this day, the garden has retained the name of its founder, the Tbilisi Persian - Mushtaidi.

MZIA KUTSNIASHVILI