The majestic mountains of Khevsureti silently gaze down at us from their lofty heights. Their caps disappear into the sky, and their ravines are bottomless. Only occasionally do the sounds of a stone rolling down the slope or the clopping of horseshoes along the narrow mountain paths break the silence. Khevsureti is Georgia’s natural reserve of exquisite beauty. Its rugged terrain, ferocious winters, and narrow paths are often impassable and make Khevsureti one of the most remote and inaccessible regions in Georgia, pristine in the manifestation of its essential self.

This mountainous province encompasses the Ardoti, Shatili and Arkhoti gorges. Two dialects are spoken here and the province is divided into two parts, Near Khevsureti and  Far Khevsureti. The snowy ranges of Kideganai (4,213 metres above sea level), Tsroli (3,950), Makhi (3,875) and Amugho-Tebulo (4,567) make the terrain even more inaccessible. Khevsureti means "a place with deep ravines," yet it does not intimidate  you. Rather, it intrigues and seduces. What is beyond these mountains? Beyond these narrow paths? The harsh climate and mountainous landscape are the principal factors behind the Khevsurian character. It has retained the most medieval quality in all of Georgia. “The codes by which they live -courage, pride, straightforwardness, fraternity, love for freedom and independence - have remained virtually unaltered," wrote Iakob Gogebashvili - a prominent Georgian public figure.

They have never been rich. On the contrary, Khevsureti is one of the poorest regions in Georgia. In the Near Khevsureti where the climate is warmer, the hillsides are covered by leaf-bearing forests. The alpine and subalpine belts provide rich pasture lands. Stock, primarily cattle-breeding, is an essential occupation here. Barley and corn, the staple agricultural products, also grow here. The planting season begins in late March.

The Khevsurs have a distinct cuisine. Wine is not served as frequently,  yet they will offer Khevsurian beer, zhipitauri (a potent home-made vodka),  mtsvadi made with the game that they themselves have hunted, and, of course, their famous 32-fold khinkali.

A reverence for tradition and continuity is evident in the generous Khevsurian hospitality.  If the night fell and a traveller sought shelter, he would go to the sapekhno (place where men of the village would gather) of the nearest village. His horse would be stabled there and a child  would be appointed to accompany him to one of the families for a night’s lodging. For the Khevsurian, having a guest was not only a great honour but also a blessing to the family. If for some reason a quarrel broke out, the host would unconditionally side with the guest. Many have suffered the most disgraceful punishment - social isolation  in the community or village for mistreatment of a guest.

Among the Khevsurs, like all other mountain peoples, brotherhood and animosity both take extreme manifestations.  Friendship is prized most, among all the virtues.  Abuse of trust and betrayal trigger  bitter animosities which have lead to vendettas and blood feuds between families and even entire villages. Proud Khevsurs are unable to forgive an insult, although not every insult would cause a blood feud. Insults were punished differently - a less insulted Khevsur would merely have to engage in a fencing match with his sword. At his wedding, every Khevsurian man must endure the test of being provoked in a “quarrel”. Either a member of the bride’s suite or the invited guest could start such a game.

Women are highly esteemed in the community and are accorded a respect endowed with great courtliness. In fact, the abduction of brides exist to the present day in Khevsureti. At home, women work hard. At night, when men sleep, they sew, spin wool, embroider, weave, and knit the famous Khevsur leggings.
Although women’s life in the mountains was hard, it was rewarded by the respect of the community. If a woman saw men fighting, she could throw a scarf in between them and say “I implore you to stop” and the fight would cease. This tradition is reflected in the drama of  the Khevsurian dance.

The Khevsurians are tenacious in maintaining their own culture, religion, language, traditions and codes of personal honour. They follow a very strict, austere way of life and habit, yet are poetic, lyrical and romantic by nature.

Today, fewer people live in Khevsureti. They have scattered, and the eyes of the old people are weary as they continue to watch the roads in the hope that a tired traveller will appear whom they can greet with the traditional “Come in peace”.

GIORGI  JAKELI